Sunday, October 24, 2010

Salzburg

I took another night train from Budapest to Salzburg.  I thought I was being clever because these tickets were cheaper and otherwise I'd have another night of lodging to consider.  However, this night train experience also left me quite exhausted.  I left Budapest at 9 something and arrived in Salzburg at 3:30ish in the morning.  With their train station under renovation (and it being quite chilly), I really didn't have a place to go, besides a small shelter on the train platform.  So, I read my book (Into the Wild) while waiting for a coffee shop to open at 6.  In retrospect, I should have gone to my hostel and asked if I could sit in the lobby, but that didn't occur to me for some reason.

Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer was an interesting book to read during my travels.  I began it on the first day of my journey and finished it on the last.  It was about someone almost my age who goes off on long journeys all alone and eventually heads up to Alaska with limited provisions to escape society and live off the land.  I certainly saw parallels in our journeys, though his were much more idealistic and extreme.  And while he reveled in solitude I wished I had had a traveling companion.  Certainly there are advantages to traveling alone, mostly in the independence it allows (you can take as long or as short as you want at a museum), but my usual life is quite independent, living alone, with most of my friends and family far away.  In any case, I highly recommend the book.  It is a compelling read, and though it is non-fiction, Krakauer crafts it as a mystery and fills it with interesting psychological and philosophical insight.

After getting a cup of hot coffee and a bite to eat, I found that Salzburg is a beautiful city with a gorgeous landscape.  Some of the mountains had snow and the clouds/fog were moving slowly overhead.

I had the chance to tour two different houses that Mozart lived in, plus take a tour of sites from the film Sound of Music.  The latter had the potential to be cheesy, but it was a great and fun experience to see these beautiful buildings, see the lake country, learn behind the scenes information about the film and even sing to the soundtrack on the bus.  There was more to see, but I was only staying a short while.

One difference I noticed between Munich and Salzburg is in whether I was addressed in English or German.  In these cities I would always address someone (waiter, shopkeeper, etc.) in German first (I began with English in Budapest).  In Munich, they would almost always hear my accent or clumsiness and respond, to my dismay, in English.  In Salzburg, however, they would always continue in German, which I appreciated.  Also, at home in Rimbach, if I address someone in German, he usually would respond in German, and I became accustomed to this.  Not only do I want to respect their cultures by speaking in their native tongue, it helps me to practice speaking German in any situation.  I'm not really sure why these two cities were different in this respect, they are both tourist cities, if anything, Salzburg more so than Munich.  And I saw non-German speakers getting around just fine in Salzburg, indicating they do speak English.  In any case, it was easy to get around and someone who didn't know any German would easily survive in these places.

One excellent opportunity to practice my language skills was in Salzburg.  I stopped for lunch in a small cafe and there were no open tables, so an older man asked if the other seat at my table was free, and I said it was, and we had a nice conversation, all in German.  Interestingly, this year is Salzburg schools' first experiment with a Fall break and we talked a bit about that, among other topics.

I met many Australians in my hostel (and in Munich too).  It seems that it is really common to take a gap year between high school and college and many use that time to backpack in Europe.  Some of them were on the road for months.  I got so tired being out for a week.  I think this is because I kept myself so busy and wasn't staying for very long in any one city; to be out for so long you need to learn to rest.  In any case, it was really nice to return to my apartment and get some rest in my own bed.

Budapest

I took a night train from Munich to Budapest.  While booking my night train I wasn't sure what to expect.  I had a seat in a compartment with three others.  They got off at different times from me and others got into the compartment and so on.  One of the stops was an hour long for some reason.  Needless to say, I didn't sleep well.  When I arrived in Budapest I had breakfast with my uncle (who was there on business) and then took a necessary "nap."

That afternoon I went to a very interesting museum called "The House of Terror."  The name seems to inspire thoughts of Halloween, but its actual content is much more serious.  It documents the tragic periods of fascist and communist rule beginning in 1944.  In 1944 is was known as the "House of Loyalty" and was the headquarters of the National Socialist Arrow Cross Party (Nazi).  After Soviet occupation began, the building became headquarters for communist terror organizations.  Before seeing this museum, I was only vaguely aware of Hungary's role in the 20th century.  I had the opportunity to learn quite a bit, from the Nazi government, to the Soviet occupation to the revolution of 1956.  Importantly, I got a sense of what it was like to live on the other side of the Iron Curtain.  I wonder how similar the experiences of the Hungarians were to other countries such as the GDR.

Another museum I toured was inside Buda Castle.  It traced the history of Budapest from the beginning (and I do mean beginning).  It was another opportunity for me to learn about this place I didn't know that much about.  Its history is complicated, with many different peoples ruling the area.

I found Budapest to be a lovely city, full of breathtaking vistas, interesting architecture and good food (goulash!).

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Visit to Munich

Thursday, October 14th, 2010

There is a lot to do in order to leave for a trip: plan, reserve, eat perishables, get your mail covered, pack, clean, etc.  These things took me way longer than I had expected and I went to bed quite late in preparation for a very early morning.  I picked the 5:41 train out of Rimbach so I would arrive in Munich early enough that I could do quite a bit.  Waking up, I actually felt pretty alert, though that feeling would not last the full day.  I changed trains at Weinheim and Stuttgart and arrived in Munich a little after 10:00.  After having a coffee at Burger King and using its restroom, I put my things in a locker at the train station and set out for the center of town, Marienplatz.  I walked down a pedestrian zone to what is the center of the city with much of the sights I wanted to see (me and many other tourists).  I saw three churches, St. Michael's Church, the Frauenkirche and St. Peter's Church.  I was also able to see the New Town Hall and the Old Town Hall, though I did not see the Glockenspiel run on the former.  I also toured the extensive Residenz where the Bavarian royalty used to live, their treasury and the Cuvilliés Theater.  After seeing these I was decidedly exhausted and went to my hostel to check in.  I got into my room, which I shared with five strangers, and took a nap.
I later went to the Hofbräuhaus for some traditional (perhaps touristy) dinner (Weisswurst) and beer.
Many of these sights sustained some form of damage in World War II and Munich decided to restore them.

The hostel's atmosphere was very young, though this hostel has no age limit.  I did get a chance to meet some interesting people.  One of my roommates was an Australian man who was traveling, another was a German who is between homes and jobs.  In this place, everything was in English first and German second, if the German was provided at all.

Friday, October 15th, 2010
Today I went to see the Dachau concentration camp.  It was a powerful experience I would recommend.  I was very interested in the evolution of the camp as it changed throughout its twelve years of Nazi rule.  I found a professional tour guide who was well worth hiring (Gordon's Tours).  Having studied the Holocaust in depth last semester, the subject was very much fresh in my mind and it was helpful to see in person many of the things I have read so much about.  I am especially interested in exploring questions about why things happened the way they did and what were the motivations behind them.  What was known about the concentration camps to the average German?  What about the average American?  Why wasn't there greater opposition to them?  Why were the inmates evacuated to the western camps (like Dachau) toward the end of the war?  One of the biggest messages was how much the Nazis and the SS were interested in Public Relations.  They were so careful and active in trying to send the right messages to achieve their goals.  A big part of the museum is also the history after 1945 and the many things that have happened at the camp.  One new thing I learned about was the terror of the clean camp at the beginning.  Of course it was terrible as conditions deteriorated towards the end of the war, but the clean camp was terrible because it was clean because of the fear put into the inmates.  Things had to be in order, or a lot of people would get punished.  It was an extremely interesting experience that of course can be a quite difficult one, encountering so much evil and human suffering.  Especially difficult was seeing film from 1945 of dying and dead inmates.  If this had been the only thing I saw on my trip, it would have been worth it.

I also went around the city and saw the English Garden and the outside of the Pinotheks (they were already closed by the time I got there).  Another long day and I was exhausted.  Time for a night train to Budapest.

Monday, September 27, 2010

Language and music in church

There are two churches here in Rimbach: a Catholic one and a Lutheran one ("Evangelische").  I have gone some Sundays to the Evangelische Kirche Rimbach.  Each week they have a different worship style including traditional worship with hymns and an organ; "Alpha" which is a service with contemporary music, a topic on the essentials of faith (somewhat connected to the famous Alpha program), and coffee and snacks; and a music service that emphasizes the musical offerings of whatever group is leading (I've heard music from both the 17th century and the local gospel choir).

Anyways, because my German is only developing, I often have a difficult time understanding what is going on in the service.  There are two things that have been easier to understand.  The first was when the service was devoted to the children.  There was a puppet show and the pastor spoke slowly and used small words.  I really appreciated it!  The second is with the contemporary music.  There is a band (with the English name "Living Bones") led by guitars which usually also has a keyboard player and drum set.   Not only did they do a song in English, but the songs in German were repetitive and used simpler language; I had a chance to figure out what they meant, and I appreciated it.

In the past, worshiping in my mother tongue, I have been disappointed by the shallowness of some contemporary worship music because of simple language and repetition (musical quality is a whole other subject).  But in this circumstance, it is what allows me to worship more easily.

Perhaps there is a larger place for simpler lyrics in worship than I had realized.  And it can be for more than just those with a smaller grasp of the language.  Variety in worship is a good thing: it helps us stay fresh and aware of what we are doing and not bogged down in "the usual."

Theater Festival in Mannheim

Check out my latest post to the MLS Guest Teacher's blog:

http://mlsgt.blogspot.com/2010/09/theater-festival-in-mannheim.html

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Sightseeing in Frankfurt

Last Saturday I played tourist in Frankfurt.  Here is a link to the photos I took while I was there.
Interestingly, I was often asked for directions.  I'm sure it didn't take them long to figure out I wasn't from the area once I opened my mouth and displayed my poor German and American accent.  Often they spoke so quickly I wasn't even sure what they were asking anyway.  Also, someone wanted help with the DB ticket machines, and I can only do the basic functions, anyway.  I suppose its good that I can be mistaken for a native from afar.
Frankfurt seemed like a fun place, and I hope to go back and explore more things, like some of the museums and the Opera.

First Day in Heidelberg

This is from my first day in Heidelberg, at my German language course, on Monday August 2nd:

I woke up at 5, had breakfast and made a packed lunch, and got on the train at 6:40.  My train got into the Heidelberg Main Train Station late, so I missed my tram to the Bismarkplatz (where my language academy is).  I got on the wrong replacement tram (right line, but wrong direction), but thankfully it didn't take me too long to realize the error.  The morning class is more of a grammar and vocabulary course with a textbook while my afternoon class is a conversation based class.  I learned well today and this should be a good experience, though the train fares are going to add up.  I did buy a discount card today (BahnCard 50), but it only takes €2 off each trip.  And the card cost €180, but hopefully it will pay off as the year goes by.  I think longer trips yield larger discounts.

The school was really difficult to find this morning.  I saw some other lost looking people and they had information packets for our school and they couldn't find it either.  We walked around for a very long time, but finally found it after asking for directions from a local.  I was with two Czechs and a Spaniard, and I had the best German in the group, so I had to ask directions and translate into English for the Spaniard.  The whole school is very international.  My classmates were from all over Europe and some even from other continents like the Chinese student who sat next to me this morning.  I'm one of very few native English speakers, though the Polish woman who sat next to me would only speak to me in English because she knew it better than German.  For most people in that class, they've already learned English as a foreign language before German, so we could probably converse easier in English than German despite the diversity of the class.  Our teacher insists on German only (rightfully so), but my classmates keep slipping in English.  Many students have English-German dictionaries rather than ones of their native language.  Perhaps its easier because English is so closely related to German.

Large German cities like Heidelberg and Frankfurt seem to have English everywhere: in the advertisements, on top of skyscrapers, on the radio (music from America), and in the directions in the train stations.  In these cities you could do very well with only English (as a tourist); not so in the smaller towns like Rimbach.  But English has infused into the German language to a far greater extent than I had realized.  English vocabulary is all over.  And everyone in my class except the student from China had been to a McDonald's or Burger King (they're all over the big cities).  Our textbook mentioned Ketchup, so I got to explain (because I'm American) what Ketchup is (though I think everyone knows what it is).

This afternoon I waited in a very long line at the Heidelberg Main Train Station (Hauptbahnhof) to get my BahnCard 50.  It took forever.  Through this and other places I've realized how much good customer service is emphasized in America.

When I left my apartment, I saw no need for an umbrella, but by the time I got to Weinheim I sure did.  It rained for much of the rest of the day; oops.  It seems that it rains almost everyday in Rimbach because its in a valley.

First Posts on MLS Guest Teacher blog

Here is my first post, and here is my second on getting set up in Rimbach.

New Blog!

Hey everyone,
Here's a spot where I'll be sharing interesting stories and photos.  Hopefully you'll enjoy it.
I'll also be linking to each post I place on the official MLS Guest Teacher blog.